Leon and 300 km to go!

So, about all of that good weather we´ve been writing about - it´s over for now. We´ve now had a chance to experience the Camino in the rain. We´ve had two days of the real thing and a couple of overcast and drizzly days. Rain makes for a very different kind of day. We prepare our packs with rain covers and wear lots more clothes, including rain jackets and gloves, since the temperatures have been much cooler - about 9 degrees. It´s also been noticably windier. The walking, however, has still been pleasant. When we stop for a break, we bring all of our wet gear into the bar, hoping for a nice warm cafe con leche and a chance to dry out a bit. At the end of the day we stuff our boots with newspapers to help dry them out (contrary to advertising, goretex is not waterproof) and the dormitory is filled with drying jackets, ponchos, rain pants, etc.

Yesterday we walked into the city of Leon and had the afternoon to look around. We saw the Gaudi building - very lovely (that´s it in the picture), and the cathedral - spectacular. Just walking around was interesting - lots of winding, old streets and inviting plazas. Unfortunately we had to walk very quickly since it was raining and very wet.

In Leon we stayed at the Benedictine Monastery for the night. We´ve stayed at a few of these now. Generally the facilites are limited and there is no charge, other than a request for a donation. In the evening there is usually a vespers service in the church with the nuns. It´s lovely to attend and enjoy the music, though we really don´t understand a word.

The rain has given us new appreciation for certain things about the Pilgrim experience. Our particularly happy moments include:
- energy snacks during the day - nuts, dried fruit and especially chocolate
- coffee stops - the usual cafe con leche with those delicious Spanish pastries
- seeing our destination for the day on the horizon
- a hot shower
- checking in with people we´ve met before on the Camino
- dry socks and boots
- hearty Pilgrim meals with the always available red wine
- good weather for drying laundry.

We´ve done about 500 km to date and have approximately 300 to go. Spanish distance signs are notoriously inconsistent. Our map book says 297 km to go, however the sign on our albergue today says 319... Regardless, we are making good progress and are continuing to enjoy all of the various different aspects of the journey. Each day is a new adventure.