The trip up and over the Pyenees on Wednesday was a cold and foggy one - quite the experience of the mountains! We were glad of our jackets and gloves. There was snow in the mountains, and, when we got to Roncesvalles (Roncevaux in the picture) we heard they had had about 6-8 inches of snow the day before and on the weekend they had turned people back because of the bad weather at the top of the mountain.
The refugio in Roncesvalles was another experience. Neither of us have ever slept in a dorm with 110 other people! The snoring did not keep us awake but apparently it did bother some of the others. We woke up to dim lights and lovely music at 6am. The refugio is run by Dutch volunteers; we had some lovely conversations with them and got away by 7:30 am.
On Thursday we walked to Zubiri, 22km. We thought the Pyrenees were tough, but this was also a tough day. The weather was gorgeous - sunny; it became hot as the day went on. There were a lot of steep ups and downs but the scenery was beautiful. Sights and sounds included lots of wildflowers in bloom, birds, more cowbells, the clock tower in Zubiri. We´re grateful for good footwear, including an extra pair to change into and our Tilley sunhats. Alice is really appreciating her walking poles, especially on the ups and downs.
We´ve had some fabulous food. The best was at the albergue in Orisson - cassolet - white beans in a delicious sauce with lamb. Every Peregrino meal starts with home-made soup, usually vegetables in good broth. Local red wine appears with every supper, just like water. It´s delicious! Our coffee breaks happen any time of the day, any time there is good cafe con leche available. Breakfast and lunches are usually baguette with cheese, possibly some meat, some fruit.
On Friday we walked 22 km to Pamplona where we stayed at another albergue, this one run by German volunteers. It was delightful! We poked around Pamplona a little bit. It´s a very lovely city and worth a trip back sometime. Today we got as far as Uterga, a very small town. We´ve covered about 90 km so far. We´re still trying to find just the right combination of time to get up and leave in the morning, walking, breaks and how far to plan for each day - so far the first 5 km are much easier than the last 5 and ups and downs (of which there have been many so far) make a big difference.
Thanks for your comments. We´ve enjoyed reading them.
So enjoying reading your blogs. I feel like I am right there with you both. Montreal lost to Philadelphia this afternoon - one more loss and they are GONE! Sunny and hot here in Ottawa... rain needed desperately. In my thoughts and prayers. xoxo Alex
ReplyDeleteI can hear the cowbells! they're lovely! I enjoy "e-travelling" with you. Tomorrow, Ian and I will visit your mom and celebrate her birthday -- should be a lovely visit. Kevin is busy planting again and working very long days. My parents planted a garden for me at my house and it's my job to do the watering. Our watering system is rather old-school (bucket on a rope dipped into a stone wall cistern). makes me appreciate indoor plumbing all the more. strength to you both! hi-fives from ian! Love, Jen, kevin, & Ian.
ReplyDeleteLove the pictures. The shoes remind me of the days when all the boys took off their shoes and placed them on the stairs. Went for a short walk today ending up climbing our laneway - thought of you guys doing this day after day. Keep going - will keep praying.
ReplyDeleteLove from 7th Heaven